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General American Skier Discussions / Re: ignition coil issue
« Last post by RonT on December 11, 2019, 08:46:49 AM »
Still running points or has this been converted to electronic ignition?? The electronic ignitions will use 12V coils & do bypass the resister. Is the new coil a 9 v or 12v ?
2
General American Skier Discussions / ignition coil issue
« Last post by our88advance on December 10, 2019, 07:08:38 PM »
ok so a few years ago I was having restart issues on my 88 model advance. I fought this most of the summer until I brushed my forearm against the coil while stuck on the lake, it was HOT!nice blister from that one. it seemed to be an original 9 volt coil with the resistor. I replaced it with an accell coil and bybassed the resistor to a switched 12 volt source.flash forward to next season and worked fine until it didn't. during trouble shooting I noticed the top of the coil was bulged and cracked around the coil wire.full disclosure this was after a long no wake speed crawl to get out of the launch area to the main water(my bride remembered something left in the car and we turnedback near the main water so we crawled it twice really,maybe 8-10 minute crawl) would really love to hear yalls thoughts on this
3
I probably should have gone aftermarket heads - but I found a set of vortec, and my machine shop did the valve jobs, and new springs and all to match my cam. All told it was 500. Probably would have been only another 250 or so for some budget aftermarket, but not this year.

Now I just need to get them on, and find an intake manifold. Vortec head bolts are same size as old school heads, right?

4
General American Skier Discussions / Re: New Member/New Owner general questions
« Last post by RonT on October 17, 2019, 08:41:51 AM »
Welcome aboard, your at the right place, this site is an extension of the OEM Factory and all of the contributors have been vetted and are reliable sources, and monitored for accuracy by American Skier.
For Parts we offer great pricing and service at : https://www.skiboatpartsonline.com/index.php
Here is the prop for basic skiing: https://skiboatpartsonline.com/Inboard-Ski-Boat-Parts/acme-props/acme-541-boat-propeller
There were more than 1 shaft length used in that model, call for directions on how to measure the shaft length
RonT  985-542-4336
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General American Skier Discussions / New Member/New Owner general questions
« Last post by CJTHOMP on October 16, 2019, 07:02:20 PM »
Hey guys this past Sunday I bought my first ski boat, I started out on a Mastercraft prostar 190 and much later a beautiful x23(both friend of the families boats). Since I was a junior in high school I have tried to buy a prostar 205(always my dream boat considering I live in middle TN closest to the river but close enough to the lake I wanted something to easily take on both). However after buying my first house 2 months ago I needed a new toy(Iím 21 with no wife or kids) and  I found online a 1991 American Skier Legend(Iíll try and post pictures tomorrow). The boat has just shy of 1200 hours and is in overall good shape, needs some wax but there is no yellowing and minimal dings and scratches. The motor cranks right up and seems to be in good condition and taken care of as the bilge and water pump have been replaced as well as all the belts on the motor plus some other things I canít remember right now. I got the boat for $2500 after some haggling however the prop has broken off and the drive shaft and prop need to be replaced as there arenít any threads left on it. This is where my question begin, Iím needing to know what kind of shaft and prop I need to be looking into getting, size wise build material, etc. I would also like to know 3 blade vs. 4 blade props, whatís best? And what difference is it going to make for a mostly river boat. And also any tips for winterizing the boat would be fantastic! If you have any additional comments on things I should be weary of or look into please add them into it, I have wanted a boat for a long time and I feel like I have a decent one. Now I just want to do it right the first time. Thanks in advance!
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Inboard Ski Boats For Sale / New Project? Chris Craft
« Last post by wetamb on October 15, 2019, 02:00:57 PM »
Anyone looking for a new winter time project?  I would love to own this but I do not have the space for it.  It is here in Fl about 1.5hrs south of Orlando...

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No I used the stock outlet. Just put new exhaust tips on it.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EYTTp82ukGCisJLe9

Reworking stock heads is a waste of time IMO. Stock heads are horrid for anything remotely performance oriented. Vortec heads are the Chevy equivalent of GT40P heads for a Ford. You'll get noticeably increased performance and HP. The only downside as you stated is you need a new intake and valve covers. The intake is a wash as its normally included in any head upgrade over the factory cast iron unit. The valve covers are cheap.

I know its not cheap but you'll never wrong with a quality set of aftermarket heads. By the time you factor in reworking a set a factory heads and putting new vavles and seals in the cost is pretty much a wash and you can literally take them out of a box and bolt them on.
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Did you raise your exhaust above the stock Ďbelow the waterlineí location? If so, any pictures?

I was kicking around three ideas for this motor - Stroke it, convert to roller cam, swap to vortec heads and intake. Perhaps one, two, or all three of these.  But real goal was just new rings, bearings, valve job.

For the sake of keeping the rebuild cheap, Stroker is not going to happen. And roller cam is not going to happen. I went with the cam a little over stock (212/218 - lifts under 500.). Compcams told us either of the two I was considering would not take an inch lb of torque off my bottom end.

 I havenít made final decision on heads yet. I can  get mine redone ( need different springs for this cam, probably some porting while they are at it) for about 350. Or my machine shop can set me up with some stock vortecs worked appropriately for about 500. Plus another 200 or so for new intake manifold. Going to the Carlisle swap meet this week, maybe Iíll find cheaper head option, but probably not.

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Seeing as you're tearing it down anyway then I agree that a cam couldn't hurt. I think either one your contemplating would work fine. Neither one is radical by any means but going any bigger starts to push the torque curve higher up the RPM scale and you'll start losing your bottom end. Talk with a cam vendor to get help on which one. You have to be a little careful about water inversion when talking marine cams too. I put a Comp marine cam in my stroker and am very happy with it but its also a roller and not a flat tappet.

@Andrew
I have a stock aluminum logs with 4" SS tubes straight out the back, no mufflers.
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What are you doing for exhaust on your stroker?
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[ Return to Welcome Page ] [ Tanis Research & Design ]

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VISIT OUR NEW PARTS PAGE AT:
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